Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

Ashmolean − Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt

A selection of 10th to 16th century embroideries from the Newberry collection at the Ashmolean by Marianne Ellis (published Oxford, 2001).

Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt by Marianne Ellis

Publications online: 66 objects

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Textile fragment with hands and diamond-shaped medallion

  • Literature notes

    The design of this motif is very intriguing but its significance remains a mystery. Its rigid hexagon shape is similar to the previous example, No.18 [EA1993.76], but instead of stepped outlines, there are little decorative hooks that can be read as hands or even little faces. As on No.18, the central pattern of V shapes is left in reserve and the background filled with blue silk in pattern darning in running stitch. The faint vertical white lines are where the worker has darned under one thread to avoid leaving long floating stitch across the ground. Judging by the fine scale of the work and its size, which is larger than the ones worked as repeating patterns, it could have been one of those arranged on either side of the neck slit of a tunic.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    Mamluk Period (1250 - 1517)
    Material and technique
    linen, embroidered with blue silk
    Dimensions
    ground fabric 10.3 x 9.4 cm (height x width)
    ground fabric 31 / 27 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.04 cm max. (thread diameter)
    ground fabric 0.01 cm min. (thread diameter)
    additional fabric 0.06 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1993.90
  • Further reading

    Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 19 on p. 34, illus. p. 34

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. p. 51 (vol. iv), illus. vol. iv p. 51

Location

    • Lower ground floor | Room 5 | Textiles

Objects are sometimes moved to a different location. Our object location data is usually updated on a monthly basis. Contact the Jameel Study Centre if you are planning to visit the museum to see a particular object on display, or would like to arrange an appointment to see an object in our reserve collections.

 

Publications online

  • Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt by Marianne Ellis

    Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt

    The design of this motif is very intriguing but its significance remains a mystery. Its rigid hexagon shape is similar to the previous example, No.18 [EA1993.76], but instead of stepped outlines, there are little decorative hooks that can be read as hands or even little faces. As on No.18, the central pattern of V shapes is left in reserve and the background filled with blue silk in pattern darning in running stitch. The faint vertical white lines are where the worker has darned under one thread to avoid leaving long floating stitch across the ground. Judging by the fine scale of the work and its size, which is larger than the ones worked as repeating patterns, it could have been one of those arranged on either side of the neck slit of a tunic.
  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    One diamond-shaped medallion containing rows of V-shapes and edged with hands.
Notice

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