Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt
A selection of 10th to 16th century embroideries from the Newberry collection at the Ashmolean by Marianne Ellis (published Oxford, 2001).
Publications online: 66 objects
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Sampler fragment with scrolls
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Literature notes
All the experimental designs on this small fragment of linen have been carried out in close counted herringbone stitch. Like pattern darning and double running, the stitches are worked evenly over and under a predetermined number of warp and weft threads of the ground fabric, but this technique is a faster method of covering the ground. As shown on the sampler, close counted herringbone stitch can be used in linear fashion, as for the continuous scroll design, or in rows to fill shapes. A close examination of the reverse side of the fragment reveals that the embroiderer made several attempts before discovering the best way to stitch a line of upright and reversed triangles without leaving long floating threads or tangles. This process is one familiar to present day embroiderers. Of the two recognisable patterns recorded in blue silk on the sampler, one is a scrolling stem design and the other is just one single foliate S. -
Details
- Associated place
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Near East (place of creation)
- Material and technique
- linen, embroidered with blue, yellow, and green silk; with remains of flax sewing thread
- Dimensions
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19 x 13 cm (warp x weft)
23 / 17 threads/cm (thread count)
ground fabric 0.05 cm max. (thread diameter)
ground fabric 0.02 cm min. (thread diameter)
additional fibre, embroidery 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
- Material index
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organic › animal › animal product › silk,
- Technique index
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assembled › woven › plain woven,woven › plain woven,
- Object type index
- No. of items
- 1
- Credit line
- Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
- Accession no.
- EA1984.502
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Further reading
Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 35 on p. 53, pp. 54-55, illus. p. 53
Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. iii, illus. vol. i
Location
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Lower ground floor | Room 5 | Textiles
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Lower ground floor | Room 5 | Textiles
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Publications online
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Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt
All the experimental designs on this small fragment of linen have been carried out in close counted herringbone stitch. Like pattern darning and double running, the stitches are worked evenly over and under a predetermined number of warp and weft threads of the ground fabric, but this technique is a faster method of covering the ground. As shown on the sampler, close counted herringbone stitch can be used in linear fashion, as for the continuous scroll design, or in rows to fill shapes. A close examination of the reverse side of the fragment reveals that the embroiderer made several attempts before discovering the best way to stitch a line of upright and reversed triangles without leaving long floating threads or tangles. This process is one familiar to present day embroiderers. Of the two recognisable patterns recorded in blue silk on the sampler, one is a scrolling stem design and the other is just one single foliate S. -
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries
A sampler fragment with representations of various continuous scrolls.
There is a selvedge with remains of sewing thread at one end.
The textile has been radiocarbon dated to 1285 +/- 40.
Notice
Object information may not accurately reflect the actual contents of the original publication, since our online objects contain current information held in our collections database. Click on 'buy this publication' to purchase printed versions of our online publications, where available, or contact the Jameel Study Centre to arrange access to books on our collections that are now out of print.
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