Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt
A selection of 10th to 16th century embroideries from the Newberry collection at the Ashmolean by Marianne Ellis (published Oxford, 2001).
Publications online: 66 objects
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Kerchief with bands of linked triangles
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Literature notes
The embroidered bands on this linen square are worked in a double-sided stitch, reinforcing the impression that it is the equivalent of today's pocket handkerchief. At this period valued objects were wrapped in a sleeve kerchief, mandil kumm, and kept safe in the wide sleeves of garments which acted as pockets. According to a record saved from the Cairo Genizah hoard of documents, one sleeve kerchief was considered sufficiently important to be listed in the dowry of a bride who lived in mid-12th century Fustat (now in southern Cairo). Other references to sleeve kerchiefs make it clear that they were made for sale in the late 12th century; a record dated 1225 specifies that a sleeve kerchief sold in the bazaar of the clothiers was embroidered. -
Details
- Associated place
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Near East (place of creation)
- Material and technique
- linen, embroidered with blue and dark-blue silk; with rolled hems in flax
- Dimensions
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25 x 24.5 cm (length x width)
along length/width 22 / 22 threads/cm (thread count)
ground fabric 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
additional fibre, embroidery 0.04 cm (thread diameter)
- Material index
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organic › animal › animal product › silk,
- Technique index
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assembled › woven › plain woven,woven › plain woven,
- Object type index
- No. of items
- 1
- Credit line
- Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
- Accession no.
- EA1984.400
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Further reading
Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 31 on p. 49, p. 38, illus. p. 49
Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. iii, illus. vol. i
Location
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- currently in research collection
Objects are sometimes moved to a different location. Our object location data is usually updated on a monthly basis. Contact the Jameel Study Centre if you are planning to visit the museum to see a particular object on display, or would like to arrange an appointment to see an object in our reserve collections.
Publications online
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Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt
The embroidered bands on this linen square are worked in a double-sided stitch, reinforcing the impression that it is the equivalent of today's pocket handkerchief. At this period valued objects were wrapped in a sleeve kerchief, mandil kumm, and kept safe in the wide sleeves of garments which acted as pockets. According to a record saved from the Cairo Genizah hoard of documents, one sleeve kerchief was considered sufficiently important to be listed in the dowry of a bride who lived in mid-12th century Fustat (now in southern Cairo). Other references to sleeve kerchiefs make it clear that they were made for sale in the late 12th century; a record dated 1225 specifies that a sleeve kerchief sold in the bazaar of the clothiers was embroidered. -
The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries
A virtually square cloth has narrow bands as borders; all bands have the same design of linked triangles worked in double running stitch, and fine cross stitch borders, but the colour of each alternates between medium and dark blue.
All four sides have a rolled hem whipped with flax thread.
Notice
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