The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries
An unpublished catalogue of the Ashmolean’s collection of Islamic embroideries from Egyptologist Percy Newberry, by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis.
Publications online: 356 objects
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Textile fragment, possibly from a turban cloth
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Literature notes
A band of cartouches which contain remains of spirals and inscriptions. The spirals are embroidered in fine blue darning stitch, the inscription in green pattern darning, and the outline of the cartouches were pulled work with wrapping stitch in diagonal rows; the latter has virtually completely disappeared.
The embroidery has virtually disappeared, although the prick marks make it still possible to follow the design. The embroidery band was sewn as a border to a coarser fabric that was hemmed along both sides, possibly for use as a turban cloth. The hems are rolled, and the seams are flat. The embroidered band has a fringe with tassels twisted in 2-ply. -
Details
- Associated place
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Near East (place of creation)
- Date
- 10th - 15th century AD
- Material and technique
- two pieces of linen, one piece embroidered with blue, green, and yellow silk; plain piece with hems in flax; joined with flat seams in flax; pulled-thread openwork; twisted tassels
- Dimensions
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including fringe 26.5 x 10 cm max. (length x width)
ground fabric (embroidered), along length/width 22 / 26 threads/cm (thread count)
additional fabric (plain), along length/width 17 / 15 threads/cm (thread count)
ground fabric (embroidered) 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
ground fabric (plain) 0.03 cm (thread diameter)
additional fibre, embroidery 0.03 cm (thread diameter)
- Material index
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organic › animal › animal product › silk,
- Technique index
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woven › plain woven,assembled › woven › plain woven,
- Object type index
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textile › cloth › turban cloth,clothing › head-gear › turban › turban cloth
- No. of items
- 1
- Credit line
- Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
- Accession no.
- EA1984.467
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Further reading
Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. iii, illus. vol. i
Location
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- currently in research collection
Objects are sometimes moved to a different location. Our object location data is usually updated on a monthly basis. Contact the Jameel Study Centre if you are planning to visit the museum to see a particular object on display, or would like to arrange an appointment to see an object in our reserve collections.
Publications online
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The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries
A band of cartouches which contain remains of spirals and inscriptions. The spirals are embroidered in fine blue darning stitch, the inscription in green pattern darning, and the outline of the cartouches were pulled work with wrapping stitch in diagonal rows; the latter has virtually completely disappeared.
The embroidery has virtually disappeared, although the prick marks make it still possible to follow the design. The embroidery band was sewn as a border to a coarser fabric that was hemmed along both sides, possibly for use as a turban cloth. The hems are rolled, and the seams are flat. The embroidered band has a fringe with tassels twisted in 2-ply.
Notice
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