Caps from the Mamluk period (1260-1517) survive in considerable numbers, and the Newberry Collection at the Ashmolean Museum includes six, richly embroidered examples. This cap is the most vibrant of the group, and is constructed with colorful patchwork of silk strips outlined by minute clusters of eyelets embroidered in buttonhole stich.
Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 65 on p. 93, p. 10, illus. p. 93
Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. ii, vol. i p. 15 n. 2
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