Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

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Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt

A selection of 10th to 16th century embroideries from the Newberry collection at the Ashmolean by Marianne Ellis (published Oxford, 2001).

Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt by Marianne Ellis

Publications online: 66 objects

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Textile fragment with chevrons and interlacing scrolls

  • Literature notes

    The pattern for this zigzag band is the same as one of those recorded on sampler No.24 [EA1984.490]. When the two are compared, it becomes clear how much threaded outlines have added to the visual impact of this fascinating embroidered band. Although the band is composed of geometric S- and Z-shapes linked to diamonds, there is a feeling of movement, almost that of a twisted ribbon. Precisely the same pattern appears on a much later embroidery, also with the design in reserve, which is attributed to the Greek Islands (see Symonds and Preece, Needlework through the Ages). This is one of several examples which suggest a definite link between Mamluk and later Greek Island needlework.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    Mamluk Period (1250 - 1517)
    Material and technique
    linen, embroidered with blue cotton
    Dimensions
    27 x 8.5 cm max. (length x width)
    along length/width 24 / 24 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.05 cm max. (thread diameter)
    ground fabric 0.01 cm min. (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    organicvegetalfibre cotton,
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.168
  • Further reading

    Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 26 on p. 42, p. 9, illus. p. 42

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. ii, illus. vol. i

Location

    • Lower ground floor | Room 5 | Textiles

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Publications online

  • Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt by Marianne Ellis

    Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt

    The pattern for this zigzag band is the same as one of those recorded on sampler No.24 [EA1984.490]. When the two are compared, it becomes clear how much threaded outlines have added to the visual impact of this fascinating embroidered band. Although the band is composed of geometric S- and Z-shapes linked to diamonds, there is a feeling of movement, almost that of a twisted ribbon. Precisely the same pattern appears on a much later embroidery, also with the design in reserve, which is attributed to the Greek Islands (see Symonds and Preece, Needlework through the Ages). This is one of several examples which suggest a definite link between Mamluk and later Greek Island needlework.
  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    A band of wide chevrons contains a meander strip; the chevrons have small crescents at their peaks. Additional ?crescent-shapes are set between the chevrons. Parallel to the chevron band is a narrow border with scrolling interlace.
Notice

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