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Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt

A selection of 10th to 16th century embroideries from the Newberry collection at the Ashmolean by Marianne Ellis (published Oxford, 2001).

Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt by Marianne Ellis

Publications online: 66 objects

Textile fragment with interlocking hexagons and diamond-shapesfront

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Textile fragment with interlocking hexagons and diamond-shapes

  • Literature notes

    Because they are worked in different stitches and colours, the two embroideries illustrated (Nos. 33 [EA1984.463], 34 [EA1984.272]) look very different. However, they share the same geometric pattern, and only differ in the details within the diamond shapes. The basic unit is a Y-shape arranged in offset rows like the Y-fret patterns that decorate 14th century Mamluk Egyptian and Syrian metal basins and trays. The design appears on a tunic worn by a Mamluk courtier on the basin known as the Baptistère of St. Louis, now in the Louvre, Paris. To create the pattern on these embroidered fragments, every alternate row of the Y shapes has been omitted, resulting in the formation of diamond shapes within elongated hexagons. The pieces provide an interesting comparison between the effects produced by using different embroidery stitches. This one is worked in pattern darning in running stitch that is so similar in appearance to weaving with a supplementary weft. The result is pleasing but does not exploit fully the freedom offered by needle and thread. The stitch was much used on Islamic medieval textiles judging from the large proportion of the Newberry embroideries worked in it.

  • Details

    show all
    Associated place
    Africa › Egypt (find spot)
    Africa › Egypt › Cairo › Cairo › Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    13th - 14th century (1201 - 1400)
    Mamluk Period (1250 - 1517)
    Material and technique
    linen, embroidered with blue silk
    Dimensions
    14.5 x 8.3 cm (length x width)
    along length/width 22 / 22 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.06 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organic › vegetal › fibre › flax › linen,
    processed material › textile › linen,
    processed material › textile › silk,
    organic › animal › animal product › silk
    Technique index
    assembled › woven › plain woven,
    woven › plain woven,
    needleworked › embroidered
    Object type index
    textile
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.463

  • Further reading

    Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 33 on p. 51, p. 52, illus. p. 51

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. iii, illus. vol. i

Location

    • Lower ground floor | Room 5 | Textiles

Objects are sometimes moved to a different location. Our object location data is usually updated on a monthly basis. Contact the Jameel Study Centre if you are planning to visit the museum to see a particular object on display, or would like to arrange an appointment to see an object in our reserve collections.

 

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Publications online

  • Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt by Marianne Ellis

    Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt

    Because they are worked in different stitches and colours, the two embroideries illustrated (Nos. 33 [EA1984.463], 34 [EA1984.272]) look very different. However, they share the same geometric pattern, and only differ in the details within the diamond shapes. The basic unit is a Y-shape arranged in offset rows like the Y-fret patterns that decorate 14th century Mamluk Egyptian and Syrian metal basins and trays. The design appears on a tunic worn by a Mamluk courtier on the basin known as the Baptistère of St. Louis, now in the Louvre, Paris. To create the pattern on these embroidered fragments, every alternate row of the Y shapes has been omitted, resulting in the formation of diamond shapes within elongated hexagons. The pieces provide an interesting comparison between the effects produced by using different embroidery stitches. This one is worked in pattern darning in running stitch that is so similar in appearance to weaving with a supplementary weft. The result is pleasing but does not exploit fully the freedom offered by needle and thread. The stitch was much used on Islamic medieval textiles judging from the large proportion of the Newberry embroideries worked in it.
  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    A band of linked and interlocking hexagons, each containing a diamond. The band also has a border with hook motifs.
Notice

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