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Indian Block-Printed Textiles in Egypt: The Newberry Collection in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford

A catalogue of Newberry's block-printed textiles by Ruth Barnes (published Oxford, 1997).

Indian Block-Printed Textiles in Egypt: The Newberry Collection in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford

Publications online: 1180 objects

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Textile fragment with stylized leaves

  • Literature notes

    The fragment is sewn together from five pieces: (a) is a blue band with single red leaves and circles containing rosettes, like Cat. no. 1123 [EA1990.1130]; (b) and (c) form a band with the pattern of large, stylized leaves related to Cat. no. 1119 [EA1990.1128]; (d) and (e) are are a solid red border sewn to the bottom of the band of leaves. The large leaves are red and have white and light blue details, against a dark blue background. The background is filled with white tendrils.

    Fragments (a), (d), and (e) have a selvedge. The measurements of the fragments are: (a) warp 26 cm., weft 10 cm.; (b) and (c): 48 cm. x 20 cm.; (d) and (e): warp 48.5 cm., weft 4.5 cm. While white flax is used in the seams that connect (b), (c), (d), and (e), black cotton thread connects (a) with (b) and (c_. The reverse shows more dye saturation than the surface.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    AsiaIndiawest India Gujarat (place of creation)
    Date
    2nd half of the 10th century - 15th century AD
    Material and technique
    five pieces of cotton, resist-dyed red and resist-dyed dark-blue; joined with seams in white flax and black cotton
    Dimensions
    49 x 33 cm max. (length x width)
    ground fabric 1 (single leaf-shapes), along length/width 20 / 23 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 2 (leaf-shapes on left), along length/width 18 / 22 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 4 (red border on left), along length/width 18 / 18 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 5 (red border on right), along length/width 19 / 18 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 1 26 x 10 cm max. (warp x weft)
    ground fabric 4 & 5 48.5 x 4.5 cm (warp x weft)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibre cotton,
    organicvegetalfibre flax
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1990.1139
  • Further reading

    Barnes, Ruth, Indian Block-Printed Textiles in Egypt: The Newberry Collection in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford, 2 vols (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1997), no. 1132 on p. 342 (vol. ii), vol. ii p. 242, illus. vol. ii p. 342 fig. 1132

    Washington, D.C.: Textile Museum, Autumn 1982, Chicago: The Field Museum of Natural History, 1982, and New York: The Asia Society Gallery, 1982, Master Dyers to the World: Technique and Trade in Early Indian Dyed Cotton Textiles, Mattiebelle Gittinger, ed. (Washington, D.C.: Textile Museum, 1982), cat. fig. 43, illus. 55

    Bérinstain, Valérie, ‘Early Indian Textiles Discovered in Egypt’, Marg, 40/3, (1989), cat. fig. 9, illus. 23

Location

    • currently in research collection

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Publications online

  • Indian Block-Printed Textiles in Egypt: The Newberry Collection in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford

    Indian Block-Printed Textiles in Egypt: The Newberry Collection in the Ashmolean Museum, Oxford

    The fragment is sewn together from five pieces: (a) is a blue band with single red leaves and circles containing rosettes, like Cat. no. 1123 [EA1990.1130]; (b) and (c) form a band with the pattern of large, stylized leaves related to Cat. no. 1119 [EA1990.1128]; (d) and (e) are are a solid red border sewn to the bottom of the band of leaves. The large leaves are red and have white and light blue details, against a dark blue background. The background is filled with white tendrils.

    Fragments (a), (d), and (e) have a selvedge. The measurements of the fragments are: (a) warp 26 cm., weft 10 cm.; (b) and (c): 48 cm. x 20 cm.; (d) and (e): warp 48.5 cm., weft 4.5 cm. While white flax is used in the seams that connect (b), (c), (d), and (e), black cotton thread connects (a) with (b) and (c_. The reverse shows more dye saturation than the surface.
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