Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

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The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

An unpublished catalogue of the Ashmolean’s collection of Islamic embroideries from Egyptologist Percy Newberry, by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis.

The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

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Textile fragment with two parallel bands

  • Literature notes

    Two parallel bands, one with an S-shape embroidered in yellow pulled work in diagonal rows, with dark blue double running stitch outlines and stylized plants in fine darning stitch. Between these two motifs are remains of very fine drawn-thread work with needle-woven bars. The design of the second band is largely disintegrated.

    The first band is 1.5 cm wide; the two bands are set at right angles between the textile's two edges, both with a rolled hem. One hem is whipped with silk, the other with a 2-ply flax thread.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    10th - 15th century AD
    Material and technique
    linen, embroidered with dark-blue and yellow silk; needle-woven drawn-thread and pulled-thread openwork; with rolled hems in silk and flax
    Dimensions
    16 x 8 cm max. (length x width)
    along length/width 20 / 26 threads/cm (thread count)
    central embroidery band 1.5 cm (width)
    ground fabric 0.05 cm max. (thread diameter)
    ground fabric 0.03 cm min. (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.03 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    organicvegetalfibre flax
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.438
  • Further reading

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. iii, illus. vol. i

Location

    • currently in research collection

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Publications online

  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    Two parallel bands, one with an S-shape embroidered in yellow pulled work in diagonal rows, with dark blue double running stitch outlines and stylized plants in fine darning stitch. Between these two motifs are remains of very fine drawn-thread work with needle-woven bars. The design of the second band is largely disintegrated.

    The first band is 1.5 cm wide; the two bands are set at right angles between the textile's two edges, both with a rolled hem. One hem is whipped with silk, the other with a 2-ply flax thread.
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