Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

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The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

An unpublished catalogue of the Ashmolean’s collection of Islamic embroideries from Egyptologist Percy Newberry, by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis.

The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

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Textile fragment with birds carrying leaves

  • Literature notes

    Two parallel bands, the wider one embroidered with a row of brown birds, each with a leaf in its beak. This band has a border of yellow and brown back stitch. The second band has a continuous row of linked vine and leaves, mostly embroidered in red, but changing to yellow for part of it.

    The wider band has a width of 2.3 cm, the narrow one 1 cm.

    The textile has been radiocarbon dated to 957 AD +/- 37, with a calibrated result of 980 to 1160. It fits stylistically into the late 10th or 11th century.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    11th century - 1st half of the 12th century
    Material and technique
    linen, embroidered with coloured silk
    Dimensions
    53 x 23 cm (length x width)
    along length/width 17 / 12 threads/cm (thread count)
    embroidery band (birds) 2.3 cm (width)
    embroidery band (vine) 1 cm (width)
    ground fabric 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.06 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.273
  • Further reading

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. ii, illus. vol. i

Location

    • currently in research collection

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Publications online

  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    Two parallel bands, the wider one embroidered with a row of brown birds, each with a leaf in its beak. This band has a border of yellow and brown back stitch. The second band has a continuous row of linked vine and leaves, mostly embroidered in red, but changing to yellow for part of it.

    The wider band has a width of 2.3 cm, the narrow one 1 cm.

    The textile has been radiocarbon dated to 957 AD +/- 37, with a calibrated result of 980 to 1160. It fits stylistically into the late 10th or 11th century.
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