Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

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The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

An unpublished catalogue of the Ashmolean’s collection of Islamic embroideries from Egyptologist Percy Newberry, by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis.

The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

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Textile fragment with repeated inscription

  • Literature notes

    An inscription is repeated to create an overall design, by arranging it diagonally and alternate its colour between brown and blue. At the hem line the inscriptions are blue, and are placed into hexagonal cartouches. This border is further embellished with a line of arrows and triangles.

    The textile has the remains of three run-and-fell seams, as well as a hem.

    It is radiocarbon dated to 1017 AD +/- 35.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    11th - 12th century (1001 - 1200)
    Material and technique
    three pieces of linen, embroidered with brown and blue silk; joined with remains of three run-and-fell seams in flax; with a hem in flax
    Dimensions
    26 x 18 cm max. (length x width)
    ground fabric 1, along length/width 25 / 25 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 2, along length/width 27 / 27 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 3, along length/width 25 / 25 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.02 cm (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.04 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    organicvegetalfibre flax
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.402
  • Further reading

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. iii, illus. vol. i

Location

    • currently in research collection

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Publications online

  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    An inscription is repeated to create an overall design, by arranging it diagonally and alternate its colour between brown and blue. At the hem line the inscriptions are blue, and are placed into hexagonal cartouches. This border is further embellished with a line of arrows and triangles.

    The textile has the remains of three run-and-fell seams, as well as a hem.

    It is radiocarbon dated to 1017 AD +/- 35.
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