Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

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The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

An unpublished catalogue of the Ashmolean’s collection of Islamic embroideries from Egyptologist Percy Newberry, by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis.

The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

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Cap with diamond-shapes and triangles

  • Literature notes

    A cap is covered with square diamonds and triangles; the diamonds are each filled with nine buttonhole-embroidered squares, while the triangles are embroidered in green or blue, the larger ones around the main band also containing a trefoil.

    The cap has a linen lining and a silk outer surface, which is completely filled with embroidery. Band and crown are sewn separately, and are joined with a run-and-fell seam. A label on the rim reads '31. Assiut 1925';
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (Asyut) (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    1450 - 1550
    Material and technique
    silk, embroidered with coloured silk; linen lining; band and crown joined with a run-and-fell seam in flax
    Dimensions
    12 cm (height)
    18 cm (diameter)
    ground fabric (silk), along length/width 42 / 42 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric (linen), along length/width 21 / 21 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric (silk) 0.02 cm (thread diameter)
    ground fabric (linen) 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.126
  • Further reading

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. ii, vol. i p. 15 n. 2, illus. vol. i

Location

    • Lower ground floor | Room 1 | Exploring the Past

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Publications online

  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    A cap is covered with square diamonds and triangles; the diamonds are each filled with nine buttonhole-embroidered squares, while the triangles are embroidered in green or blue, the larger ones around the main band also containing a trefoil.

    The cap has a linen lining and a silk outer surface, which is completely filled with embroidery. Band and crown are sewn separately, and are joined with a run-and-fell seam. A label on the rim reads '31. Assiut 1925';
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