Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

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The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

An unpublished catalogue of the Ashmolean’s collection of Islamic embroideries from Egyptologist Percy Newberry, by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis.

The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

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Textile fragment with quilted bands

  • Literature notes

    Two bands of red and one band of green silk fabric have been quilted to a backing of linen. They have buttonhole-embroidered eyelets along the edge of each band, as well as down the centre. Further embroidery is along the border of each band.

    The ground fabric has a flat seam in it, at right angles to the bands. On the reverse is a small paper label with the number 372.1888; it looks like a museum accession number. Newberry had close contacts with the Victoria and Albert Museum, but the number does not correspond to their catalogue entry, where 372.1888 is an English vase.

    The fragment has been radiocarbon dated to 1580 +/- 55.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    2nd half of the 15th century - 1st half of the 17th century
    Material and technique
    red and green silk, quilted, and embroidered with red, blue, and yellow silk; linen backing; with a flat seam in flax
    Dimensions
    26.5 x 16.5 cm max. (length x width)
    ground fabric, along length/width 52 / 52 threads/cm (thread count)
    backing, along length/width 14 / 14 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.02 cm (thread diameter)
    backing 0.06 cm (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.06 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    organicvegetalfibre flax
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.128
  • Further reading

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. ii, illus. vol. i

  • Location

      • currently in research collection

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    Publications online

    • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

      The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

      Two bands of red and one band of green silk fabric have been quilted to a backing of linen. They have buttonhole-embroidered eyelets along the edge of each band, as well as down the centre. Further embroidery is along the border of each band.

      The ground fabric has a flat seam in it, at right angles to the bands. On the reverse is a small paper label with the number 372.1888; it looks like a museum accession number. Newberry had close contacts with the Victoria and Albert Museum, but the number does not correspond to their catalogue entry, where 372.1888 is an English vase.

      The fragment has been radiocarbon dated to 1580 +/- 55.
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