Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

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The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

An unpublished catalogue of the Ashmolean’s collection of Islamic embroideries from Egyptologist Percy Newberry, by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis.

The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

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Textile fragment with cartouche, trefoils, and leaves

  • Literature notes

    A wide band is filled with a hexagonal cartouche made up from a square filled with linked trefoils and leaves, partly arranged as a large ornate quatrefoil, and two triangles along parallel sides of the square. The triangles are each filled with a floral vine. The background of the band is filled with openwork embroidered in yellow silk, the hexagon is embroidered with slanted counted filling stitch worked on the diagonal. The embroidery defines the background. Along either side of the band is a border with a continuous vine. Again the embroidery in green slanted filling stitch defines the background.
  • Details

    Associated place
    Africa Egypt (find spot)
    AfricaEgyptCairoCairo Fustat (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
    Date
    10th - 15th century AD
    Material and technique
    linen, embroidered with green silk; drawn-thread openwork in yellow silk
    Dimensions
    21 x 17.5 cm max. (length x width)
    along length/width 26 / 26 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.04 cm max. (thread diameter)
    ground fabric 0.02 cm min. (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    Material index
    organicvegetalfibreflax linen,
    Technique index
    Object type index
    No. of items
    1
    Credit line
    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
    Accession no.
    EA1984.285
  • Further reading

    Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, cat. vol. ii, illus. vol. i

Location

    • currently in research collection

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Publications online

  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    A wide band is filled with a hexagonal cartouche made up from a square filled with linked trefoils and leaves, partly arranged as a large ornate quatrefoil, and two triangles along parallel sides of the square. The triangles are each filled with a floral vine. The background of the band is filled with openwork embroidered in yellow silk, the hexagon is embroidered with slanted counted filling stitch worked on the diagonal. The embroidery defines the background. Along either side of the band is a border with a continuous vine. Again the embroidery in green slanted filling stitch defines the background.
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