Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

Ashmolean − Eastern Art Online, Yousef Jameel Centre for Islamic and Asian Art

Newberry Collection

Explore Percy and Essie Newberry's important collection of textiles including Islamic embroideries and Indian block-printed fragments.

Detail of block-printed textile fragment with band of rosettes and flowers, Gujarat, 1250-1350 (Museum No: EA1990.140)

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Textile fragment with tendrils

Location

    • currently in research collection

Objects are sometimes moved to a different location. Our object location data is usually updated on a monthly basis. Contact the Jameel Study Centre if you are planning to visit the museum to see a particular object on display, or would like to arrange an appointment to see an object in our reserve collections.

 

Publications online

  • Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt by Marianne Ellis

    Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt

    The detail is taken from part of a band of trefoils arranged alternately in upright and reversed positions. Most of the yellow silk stitching has perished, but enough of the red has survived for us to see the characteristic plaited effect produced by close counted herringbone stitch (also known as Greek stitch and classified under canvas work). The same effect is produced by long-armed cross stitch, but the method of working is different and results in lines of horizontal stitches on the reverse side instead of vertical ones made by long-armed cross stitch. The way in which close counted herringbone is worked is typical of one category of Mamluk embroidery and, if present on a textile, strongly suggests a Mamluk Egypt origin. During the 20th century, the method of working long-armed cross stitch changed, possibly because in stitch dictionaries the instructions implied that every row should be worked in the same direction with the long arm slanting stitches all facing the same way, so losing the plaited effect. Historically, long-armed cross stitch was worked continuously back and forth in succeeding rows, and its qualities as textural filling stitch were appreciated by later embroiderers in Azemmour (Morocco), and the Greek Islands, where it was used for embroidered furnishings to decorate homes.
  • The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries by Ruth Barnes and Marianne Ellis

    The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries

    A band of paired tendrils alternating in their direction. The tendrils have remains of yellow (undyed) silk embroidery, the background is pale red.

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